CAP KAROSO SUMBA, REVIEW: SMH TRAVELLER

A LIGHT-FOOTED APPROACH AND UNDERSTATED LUXURY ARE ON OFFER AT THIS NEW SUMBANESE RESORT, WRITES NINA KARNIKOWSKI.

The hotel
Cap Karoso Beach Resort and Farm, Indonesia.

Check-in
About twice the size of Bali but with one-fifth of the population, Sumba has been largely overlooked by travellers, despite being just a 90-minute flight east of Denpasar. Happily, you’ll see nothing much but a smattering of grass-roofed houses, rice paddies and coconut and papaya trees on the one-hour drive from Tambolaka airport to Cap Karoso, on the west coast. Arriving in the outdoor lobby, set next to a field-sized infinity pool, you’ll be greeted by a bar cart and the offer of a Karusotju Indonesian arak and rosella iced tea cocktail.

The look
Created by French couple Evguenia and Fabrice Ivara, Cap Karoso blends local design and craftsmanship with impeccable taste. The 47 guest rooms and 20 villas are spread over three hectares that roll down to Karoso Beach, while the fitness centre and Malala Spa are in traditional peak-roofed houses in the middle of the resort. The aesthetic is minimal and natural, with exterior walls made from limestone, native grasses covering rooftops, and lemongrass lining pathways to deter mozzies.

The room
Opening onto a deck fringed by a garden, our 52-square-metre terrace studio, one of 24, has an elevated island feel. Local statues, textured ceramics and a carved wooden panel inspired by Sumbanese ikat behind the super-king bed provide thoughtful decoration. There are also 16 studios in the building overlooking the main pool and the Indian Ocean beyond, and seven beachfront suites with separate living rooms and tubs opening onto private gardens. Twenty villas with pools are being built during my stay.

Food + drink
There aren’t any restaurants nearby, so luckily the food is outstanding. Much of the produce is sourced from Cap Karoso’s nearby farm where guests are encouraged to visit and where training programs are being introduced for locals. The open-air Beach Club restaurant and bar headed by French executive chef Antoine LeVacon shared Mediterranean-style dishes and Indonesian classics. At fine-dining restaurant Julang, guest chefs stay for three to six-week residencies and create menus with farm ingredients.

Out + about
A 10-minute drive away is Weekuri Lagoon where you can dive into turquoise waters. Visit a kampung village where traditional pointed houses gather around stone graves and you can learn about the Marapu belief system. Visit a waterfall or take a cooking class. Boards, kayaks, snorkels, e-bikes, a kids’ club and babysitting are available.

The Verdict
While a French beach club vibe may be a tad out of step with where Sumba is currently, it offers understated luxury and a light-footed approach.

Essentials
Rooms from $US300 ($469) a night, low season and $US400 a night high season, including breakfast. Beware the extra 10 per cent service charge and 10 per cent tax. Karoso Beach, Southwest Sumba. See capkaroso.com

Our score out of five
4.5

Highlight
Cap Karoso’s engagement with local culture, including weekly talks on Sumbanese culture and education-focused outings.

Lowlight
The music in the public spaces was mostly deep house, which can be disconcerting over muesli at 8am.

Nina Karnikowski stayed with assistance from Cap Karoso.